How to grow Weed

What you need to do before anything is order your feminized seeds or find a buddy who will give you a mother plant or a clone. For starters, I am going to go with the seed. Okay, so you have your seed. What you need to do next is find a shot glass, fill it with room temperature tap water, place the shot glass carefully inside the tin box and then with delicacy, drop the seed into the shot glass and close the lid. Make sure you allow the tin box to be somewhere warm, so the germination process can thrive optimally. After a few days, the seed should have dropped to the bottom of the shot glass and a taproot should have popped out and formed. If it didn’t pop out, it’s okay; either wait another day or the seed that which you purchased was a weak immature seed. (Note: the seed should be dark colored with blackish, brown spots.) While this is happening, your making a homemade propagator using a small-medium Tupperware container with lid. Flip the container upside down and using industrial strength scissors, cut the bottom off and replace it with super clear saran wrap and make sure its airtight. Next, I want you to find a solo red cup, cut some little windows at the bottom for drainage and fill it with Jiffy potting soil. The reason this soil is so good, is it contains no fertilizers and has a good air to water ratio, which is needed for optimal growth. Next, poke a hole about ¼-½ inch down and add a drop or two of water into it from the shot glass and place the seed taproot UP! I have tried many times with the seed face down and it grows weird and longer. Once the seed is in, lightly cover it with jiffy soil and mist about 5 sprays. Finally, place the cup on a circular aluminum pie tray within the propagator and airtight lock that baby by snapping the lid on. ( Note: Make sure the saran wrap is on the top.) Place it somewhere warm with a low level CFL, preferably 1-2 13 W Blue spectrum CFL’s or a small T5 Fluorescent Tube. (Note: Place the lights close to the saran wrap three finger lengths away and mist the cup twice daily) After 7-10 days, the seedling should have grown. Once the plant has developed two internodes and is about 3-4 inches, transplant into either a bigger pot, or the ground. If into the ground however, make sure you clear out old nasty dirt with fresh 10-09-08 fertilizer mixed with jiffy potting soil that you began with, make sure the plant is on a 6% downgrade or less facing south with at least 5-6 hours of direct light. Also, be sure to add some tomato plants for 1). Oxygen/Carbon dioxide conversion. 2). Vegetative concealment from the unfamiliar. Always water around the plant, never by the stem; we want the roots to grow out, not in. AND NEVER OVERWATER. ALWAYS WATER WHEN THE TOP SOIL IS DRY ABOUT A KNUCKLE DEEP The way I try to do it is by watering with a spray gun after shaking the gun to get the oxygen within the water, mist the soil and spray until it has a light water on top that lasts about 10 seconds and soaks in, THEN STOP. If you watered too much, the water will stay on top longer than 10 seconds and your seedling’s chance of survival will be cut in ½ just by that. Also, you should mix a light humic acid and nutrient blend as a foliar spray and spray that every 4 days. As for your fertilizer, use Buddha Grow and Extreme Serene in VEG. (For FLOWER, use MORE Extreme Serene Roots Organic) LIKE ¼ strength per gallon. Try to switch watering one week and ferts the next. When the plant has reached 3 internodes, pinch off one of the newly made shoots also known as the “Spearhead” This will cause it to double shoots and if you do this enough times, you’ll have enough shoots on your mother to produce an adequate amount of clones to come. Just make sure you don’t take/cut more than 30% of the plants mass, or else you will severely stress it, or kill it. NEVER DEFOIL the plant. Do this until the plant gets pretty healthy and big 1 ft 6 inches preferably. NOW ITS TIME to cut some clones. Find a place where you see new shoots growing from the base of the stem or close to ground level, for this is where the genetics are the strongest, they will be like a yellow green hue and stand out from the rest of the plant. You follow it down the stem until it meets a Y shape and Cut about 1 ½ inches up the stem at a 45 degree Angle and dip it in ice water to get rid of the air bubble forming into the stem. Think of it as a blood clot that will kill the plant. After dipping it, cut the edges of the leaves to promote root growth and place the young cutting into a overnight water soaked seed pod ( similar to Rockwool cubes). Place the Cutting into the propagator that you made earlier and run the T5 or the 13 W CFL 24-hours. After 10 Days of checking your happy little clone, the clone should have roots showing outside the pod and then you can transplant into a pot or the ground. MAKE SURE TO GIVE A GOOD NUTRIENT SPRAY before transplanting to reduce stress and give a light water to the new pot soil before transplanting the cutting. Mist every day in the morning and towards dusk, NEVER during mid-day, for this will cause the plant to burn from the sun magnifying and there goes your hard work. TRUST ME, I know. That’s pretty much it for the Vegetative. JUST REMEMBER, as the plant grows, the flowering will never take place unless the light cycle changes from 18-24 hours to 12/12, light spectrum changes from 2500 K to 6500 K, the nutrients change, the temperature drops, and the humidity drops. If one of those is left out, flowering will be weak sauce with all sorts of issues. Also remember the older the plant gets in flowering, the less amount of nutrients is required due to the fact that the plant is weakening its defenses to grow those buds. As the plant grows up , you’ll need to do some under trimming also referred to as the lollipop method. Pretty much strip the underside of the plant from leaves and tiny buds to promote canopy growth, positive aeration through the plant, less susceptible to disease mold, rot. As the buds form, be sure to tie them apart from each other, for one doesn’t want one bud shoot touching another, for this will cause bud rot, mold. The tying off will cause the plant to go through something called low stress training. Think of it as a way for the plant to workout its muscles. Prolifically SPEAKING, IT PROMOTES GROWTH. Stop LST when flowering begins. After tying down the plant and waiting a week, (Clone grown up, and remember your taking 5 clones every two weeks from your mother if you want to make the big bucks months down the road) remove the ties and watch explosive growth when mixed with foliar spray and 1/6 nutrient 0-5-6. AS LONG AS the nitrogen is gone, the plant will use all the nitrogen within itself to grow, your just supplying the plant with the P and K values it needs to grow the bud. After 50 days, the plant should look beautiful and smell SEXY with trichromes forming buds growing, female calyxes showing sex. Two weeks before you cut her down, start to flush her with clearex (read the label ) This will take out all the salt buildup, extra nutrients and allow the plant to grow even bigger buds. Throw in a table spoon of molasses with your watering to give the BUDS EVEN MORE THC TRICHROMES and POTENCY. YOU SHOULD CUT HER DOWN BEFORE THE LIGHTS TURN ON ( so have a green light ready; chlorophyll doesn’t read Green light spectrum) this enables the hormone to remain within the root system and allows the bud forming hormone to remain on the top side of the plant. When you cut the plant down and turn it upside down in a closet to dry, the plant is still alive; however, the hormone is bouncing everywhere trying to make the plant grow bud BUD. Eventually, the plant hormone dies, the plant dries, and our eyes get teary with happiness because those buds ARE AMAZING!. After 3-4 months of grueling, your buds are dry, now you have to cure them. Grab a mason jar, paint it black on the outside, let it dry, trim the nugs, drop em in, shake em up, tighten the lid, store the jar somewhere cool. Open it up a lot in the beginning, then half life it every week for 8 weeks. Open 5 times a day for a week shaking it while its open then closing it. Next week 4 times every other day for a week, Next week 2 times a day every other day for a week, Next week One time a day every other day for a week, Next week One Time Twice a week, Next Week One time a Day. THEN YOUR DONE. Now REMEMBER you have those clones to watch and always give your mother high NITROGEN . TIME MANAGEMENT IS KEY, so I recommend before doing anything that you have a plan on where you want to go and how much bud you want to grow since its legal and all! REMEMBER this is for Educational purposes only. If you want to grow indoors, I can explain it, but there’s a lot of technicalities and variables that leave a wide spectrum of creativity to the grower. Just do some research like I did and you will be able to come up with your own ideas and creations. I created a grown room out of a mini fridge mahogany cabinet with a granite countertop with sliding doors that I put all my nutrient bottles in. On the backside, I mounted a in and out flo fan, a T5 and a 60 W blue spectrum with reflector. I painted the walls reflective plastic white and made that badboy lightproof and bug proof. I hook them up to two timers, one for the lights and the in flo fan, and the other for outflo fan to come on every 25 minutes of the hour. This allows the Carbon dioxide to get reabsorbed into the plant when the humidity levels reach GOOOOOD levels. Always remember, knowledge is power and use that power to grow knowledge.

PIECE,

KCP WEED Stasis