Is My 12 Megapixel Camera Good Enough?

Yes.

Just leave the price box blank on any product you don't want to offer.

make sure it's blank (like Edward said) and don't put a zero.

I have found that in all of my 35 sales, no one ever printed "the largest size". Having a large mega pixel capability is only good if you are planning to print really huge works of art.

Not sure who told you your camera can only print 16X20. One of your photos is 2000X3000 pixels that I saw. That's good enough for a 20X30 and judging from the green box, there's plenty of quality there. I believe my first digital camera was the first Digital Rebel, or 300D, and it was roughly 6 megapixels. I've got a fantastic 20X30 out of it hanging up and it's for sale here at that size. You're good to go!

I just deleted the prices, but the duvet is still there, for example. Does the website take a while to catch up? thanks.

Yup! I agree most of my sales are cards or 20" and under prints!

Joseph - I looked at my camera and it says the largest format is 16X20" Also I looked here: https://photographyicon.com/enlarge/ which confirms that 16X20 is the best size and it degrades from there. That image must have been a mistake, I meant to size it down to 2000 on the longest side. It becomes pixelated otherwise.

Hello

The sizes depend on your pixels. Unlike other sites we never crop or skew images to fit standard sizes, instead allowing the artist free scope to just upload what they have

The only limits we have are that one of your dimensions is going to be forced to fit the following list:

8"
10"
12"
14"
16"
20"
24"
32"
36"
48"

The other dimension will be scaled proportionally to maintain the aspect ratio of your image.

We print at 100dpi and up so that makes the math easy. 4800 pixels is 48"

To your original question, Is My 12 Megapixel Camera Good Enough? There is no way anyone can tell you that as the camera is only as good as the person using it

Sometimes I have to delete the boxes twice if you do it too fast. When you delete the $ make sure there isn't a price under the sale price line. If there is, just go back to the box and delete again. Most people order smaller photos so don't worry about size. And don't worry about duvet covers. To get a full duvet cover size, you need a huge camera or create digital art has to be at least 5000 x 5000 (I think). Even at 24MP camera can't do that without digitally altering the size which can affect quality. I see you do a lot of digitally altered photos. Make sure you are saving them at the highest quality setting. Some people think MP is the most important. The lens is actually more important, and like Abbie said, the person behind the camera.

Keep up the good work, and Welcome to FAA!

So should my dpi be 100 on my photos? I put them at 300 dpi. Does that affect anything? I meant would a 12 megapixel camera support a large format printout. But I have already found that the answer is no. The largest print would be 16X20". thank you.

No no no no NO.

1. I sell and print 48 inch prints here with a 12 MP camera.

2. Do not mess with the dpi. It lies or really it is meaningless on a file. It only matters when you print. A file that is 6000x4000 may say whatever but here is how it works. Print that file at 60x40 it is 100 dpi. Print it at 6x4 and it is 1000 dpi if the printer is capable of that.

What the file says is irrelevant.

Never change your dpi in edit, it may resample and enlarge the file and that is bad.

I had a quick look online and a 12 mp camera can easily do 40" prints

One last thing, the sensor size matters much more than the MP.

While I print 48 inch prints shot with a full frame dslr I might not be able to do that on a 12 MP crop sensor. I probably couldn't on a 12 MP point and shoot and almost certainly couldn't on a 12 MP cell phone.

Joanne, would you mind sharing some details about your camera? Like Joseph, I don't understand why a 12mp camera can only produce a 16x20 print. I've sold prints of that size -- and slightly larger -- from my old 5mp Canon point & shoot.

EDIT to add -- Oops; I see others have already chimed in on this.

In your camera Settings menu, do you have the option for Standard Jpeg or Fine Jpeg, concerning picture size/quality?

some buy them large, some don't. its more important that the image is clear, sharp and clean up close, over large.


do not enlarge them. this is stretched out. and made much more noticeable with the overlay you put on them.


watch your compression, this one has blocks and won't print.

you have quite a few images that were enlarged in some way

as others said, don't add the price, and you won't sell it.

---Mike Savad
MikeSavad.com

I don't understand why a 12mp camera can only produce a 16x20 print.

This is a good question, but relatively easy to explain. Despite the native resolution capability of a sensor, it depends on how you pre-set your camera body to record that particular file in your shooting menu. I'll use an older Nikon D300 as an example, which is a professional DX crop sensor body. It's native resolution is 12.3 MP. However the 12.3 MP is possible only if you choose the NEF-RAW files or the largest JPG/FINE settings.

If you changed the camera's settings prior to shooting to "jpg" and lowered the quality and size you will not be taking full advantage of the D300's wonderful resolution. If you prefer not to shoot in RAW format, you can use JPG and then for your quality and size go with FINE and stay with the largest size.

A 12.3 MP body creates a single frame file nearly 4300 pixels on the wide end (4288 to be precise) . It's easy to see when Joanne was shooting she had both the quality and size lowered in the shooting menu.

Last week I just completed an order for a client through my personal website for a 48" print on a 100% cotton rag FineArt print paper. I captured the original scene 5 years ago with my old D300 MP Nikon and 24-70mm F/2.8 lens in NEF-RAW format. The 12 MP body and appropriate professional lens provided plenty of resolution to make a sharp print and a happy client :)

Hi,

Wendy - it's a Cannon G16 and it says right on the Large size (L) in the camera: :"12M 4000X3000 For printing up to A2 size (16X20)". And it does not go larger in the settings. And also, just by checking the Actual pixel size in Photoshop tells me that it pixelates at a larger size. And looking at this website: https://photographyicon.com/enlarge/ which explains what the best size is for the camera's megapixels. Which is 16X20 for the best prints from a 12 megapixel camera. You can get "good" prints larger, just not excellent prints.
Greg - I don't see anything about Standard Jpeg or Fine Jpeg in my settings.
That's odd, Mike, because all I changed was the dpi and actually made them smaller. I have no idea where to set the compression in Photoshop on a jpeg. I don't see it.

You guys are great, I didn't expect such a response - thank you all!

don't mess with dpi. this site prints at 100dpi for the largest prints, most places print at 300dpi which reduces the size of the image. if you set you crop to 300, it will enlarge and stretch the image. which is usually done here and the image is ruined.

if the camera makes a 4000px image, leave it there, make sure it doesn't get larger at any time. when saving always aim for a level 12 when you can. the one i posted looks like a 4 or so. don't save for web either.

---Mike Savad
MikeSavad.com

Thanks JoAnne, that helps.

You have a point and shoot 12 mp camera. It is pretty good and you will be allowed to list on FAA up to 40 inches.

That said, P&S cameras have a tendency to get noise and little artifact things when viewed really close or blown up large. This will also vary based on the light when you shoot.

I had a 12 MP P&S and I do sell work shot with that on here. I limit the size I offer based on the clarity of the image when I zoom in. Most will print at 20 inches. Some will print as large as 36 and some I limit to 16 inches. It really varies a lot from shot to shot with a P&S.

The level thing Mike is talking about is a Photoshop thing BTW. I don't use Photo Shop myself and my editing software doesn't have that as far as I know.

Mike, why do you say that one is stretched. It isn't, that is the size it always was - what is it that you see? I never stretch images. It's cropped only. Thanks.

when you crop something at a fixed size - it will stretch it.

so like if your image was 2000x2000. and you set your crop at 2000x2000 or set the dpi to something. the act of getting a tight crop would stretch the image. if you want to crop it, the fields have to be blank. when you zoom in, you should see a sharp image. but if its stretched like it is, its no good.

---Mike Savad
MikeSavad.com

sorry, Mike, I am not following you. I used the cropping tool and cropped out the top part which I didn't like in the composition. I guess I can't use that one because it is an odd size and what you might mean is that it will be stretched because of the standard sizing on this website? Except I just checked and the sizing seems to be according to what the image is and not standard at all....

And do I have to change everything from 300dpi to 100dpi now? I thought the dpi really didn't matter, it was the pixels that mattered....

Joanne

Mike may be incorrect in why it looks that way.

Cropping will not stretch an image.

Im getting an education here from the bench

what is the way that it looks - not sure what you guys are seeing? It is graffitti on a wall. That's the way it looked. Or is it something else? I am not seeing the problem...thanks.
And I am now worried about the resolution on my photos. Is it a problem that they are 300 resolution and do I have to change them all to 100 resolution? thanks.

Joanne, you get an inch of print for every hundred pixels across here. Don't worry about what you read elsewhere. The printers they use have very fine droplets and look good with that amount of input. I sell 48 inch prints from my 12.3 MP D300 all the time. That does work out to 100DPi as an input, but let FAA take care of that part.(don't change the DPI it cannot help and could hurt if not done right). You just upload what comes out of the camera minus what you crop off. Don't set any dimensions when you crop. You could force an up sizing if you do. A lot of older point and shoots have noise etc, but ideallly if you are careful you can get a 40 inch print. But even a 16X20 is a big print.

JC that level thing is the amount of JPEG compression. It is always adjustable. Some times its just 1-10. Or good better best. Anyway there is no need to shoot or save at any lower setting with a 12 MP camera.

Orange door looks pixilated and won't print even though it is smaller than your camera should produce. Something is not right and caused that pixilization.

Conversely, sunset door is larger than your camera can produce. It is 4800x4000 pixels and you said your camera's native size is 4000x3000. Thus, it has been enlarged, somehow.

Saving and shooting in camera is always there but I am pretty sure my editing doesn't have it. If it does, I have always saved at the default and have no idea what that is.

Bradford - thanks. Most of these photos were used elsewhere online and have been Photoshopped and changed the sizing, so none of them are as they were out of the camera! Except the new one I just uploaded that I had not touched yet. It is better that way, but when you are uploading them to a website or Facebook or elsewhere online, you want to make everything smaller. I didn't expect to be doing this here until just recently and will save them untouched for here and "touched" for online going forward! I really liked the idea of a duvet with the sooty wall of a track at Grand Central Station on it, but it is not to be!
Okay, I think the two doors are fixed. I went back to the originals. thank you so much for seeing the problems!

I have a 15mp camera and have many images from here that are 24X36 and they look amazing. Like others have said. Just upload what comes out of the camera.

it will though. if the crop is set to a dimension. it will stretch the image to fit into the new box. that's why you want to frame in camera. or crop as little as you can. i have my crop set to a certain size, i know that if i crop a tiny part of my image, at a certain size, it will stretch the image to fit the new crop size.

if you click on that image. i should see concrete that looks like something. but i just see smears.

the dpi doesn't make a difference. its just a reference number.

often what enlarges everything is when people set the dpi in the crop to 300. it just makes it larger.

basically if your cropping something. the pixel size should be smaller than the original. if the size is the same or larger than the original, then something stretched.


---Mike Savad
MikeSavad.com

"if the crop is set to a dimension. it will stretch the image to fit into the new box. that's why you want to frame in camera. or crop as little as you can. i have my crop set to a certain size, i know that if i crop a tiny part of my image, at a certain size, it will stretch the image to fit the new crop size. "

This is simply not true with my editing software. If you crop you cut out parts of the image to make it fit the size of the crop.

I am not sure how photoshop works so maybe, but what you are describing sounds more like resizing an image to fit a certain dimension, not cropping.

its hard to explain it without pictures. the crop will let you set it to a certain size. so i can make a 1200x1200 image into a 10,000x10,000 image simply by editing those numbers. but it will stretch it, its no different than using transform. i'm not sure what corel uses. but photoshop will stretch the thing bad. crop will also let you fix perspective, which can also distort things.

cropping should make it smaller. but often, depending on settings, it will make it larger.

i do enlarge some of my images, but i know how to fix them, so it will always pass. so i'll set the crop to a certain ratio and then it becomes a larger image after.

---Mike Savad
MikeSavad.com

Thomas, I should have said, I don't understand why a 12mp camera can only produce a 16x20 print assuming you're shooting at the highest settings.

My bad! :-)

Joanne, I'm glad you're getting some useful assistance here.

Joanne,

Welcome, I like your work.

There is a printing rule of thumb. If you are one foot away as is custom from a magazine page the dpi
must be 300 so the human eye does not see the dots.

The rule is the inverse of 3 foot to 100, 1 foot to 300, or 25 feet to 12. All if it equal to 300.

If you are three feet away from a wall looking at a print the dpi must be 100 so the human eye does not see
the dots of the print.

If you are looking at a billboard on the highway the dpi might be 15, roughly.

Your camera is set to 300 dpi, really it is ppi. Pixels per inch and dots per inch are two somewhat different things, but
they work together from camera/photoshop/editing to actually printer for magazine or Giclee.

Monitors, CPUs, printers, HDTVs have scaling engines that bring sizes up to what is needed.

The FAA software behind the scenes will take your 300 ppi image and scale by FAA's 100 ppi requirement. So
as has been said 16 x 20 times 3 becomes 48 x 60 at 100 ppi.

I have read much of this thread, but not all of it, much of what I am saying has been said. Hopefully I have added some context.

My guess is when you change your camera setting from 300 ppi to 100 ppi (or in Photoshop) you are also changing the camera resolution specific to the image in part in an "AFTER the shot has been taken EDIT". This is what Mike is seeing. You are distorting your image with the edit.

Good luck,

Dave

Here's a night shot with a G16 on Flickr .. Looks pretty nice.

https://flic.kr/p/hUWppF

While there if you click on the link next to the camera image you'll see stats for that model. Looks like its number 51 out of 250 for the Canon Brand on Flickr.

DPI confuses the heck out of me. My eyes just glazed over. Really, how big any of us can print depends on a lot if things. My current camera puts out roughly a 34X51 inch image and some of my shots here are that size.

But between my tendency to have to level every single shot I take, cropping to taste and sometimes sizing down for image quality, very fee of my stuff here are that size.

I aim at offer 40 inch prints at the largest size. At no point have I ever worried at DPI

Joseph,

PPI and DPI are two completely different things.

Every printer has a working way of doing things with DPI.

Every monitor and digital file works with PPI.

The two have been slavishly put into one concept here. That does not work.

In the computer world as one component works with the next component formating happens. That is
where the digital file PPI meets the printer DPI. Otherwise they are two separate working parts. Different.

Dave

David,

Thanks. I should have also mentioned I don't care to understand DPI or PPI. I just like to take pictures.

Mike, when you crop an image manually using the crop tool, it doesn't stretch the image at all!

Joanne, don't go by what the camera says is the largest size print.

As long as you don't add numbers to the crop it will just cut the image.

Too late Joseph you read my post.

Dave

Actually my camera is set to 180 resolution, but I always thought 300 resolution was the standard for print so I changed it to 300 in Photoshop, which I now understand is a no no. So I will go back and change these back to 180 in the photos where I cannot start again from the original (the ones I drew on) and hope that will be okay. Because I had always used "resample image" in Photoshop, so it may not be okay. And redo the others from scratch, I guess. :(

The thing is when I use that full resolution preview box on the uploaded images to see what the images actually look like at the original camera size, they are pixelated if I leave them as they came from the camera. I have to make them smaller. And most of them are only good at roughly 1600X2000 pixels just like the camera says - if that preview is to be believed. Even though they are 3000X4000 from the camera.

I read this which was really helpful about changing dpi: http://www.rideau-info.com/photos/changedpi.html

Yes, I use the crop tool in photoshop and do not change any numbers. Unless the numbers get changed automatically?

There is something wrong with Orange Door, even in the original. I had to bring it down to 1200X815 for it not to look pixaleted in the full resolution preview. Even that size, I am not so sure about.

Thank you all so much. I am learning something here.

Joanne - you're over-thinking the whole thing! As long as your camera is set to its native 12 MP and jpg fine, it's capable of taking perfectly good photos, a little noisy perhaps, but quite suitable for printing up to 30" x 40" on FAA. It's what you're doing to them afterwards that's causing the problem!

Forget about resolution - the only reason to ever change it in Photoshop is if you're going to do your own printing, and then only if you know what you're doing.

If your camera output is roughly 3000X4000, don't change that in Photoshop either (Google 'interpolation' to find out why).

Did your Visual Arts course include a module on Photoshop? If not, there are plenty of tutorials, demonstrations, etc, on the web - have a look round to see what you can find.

just be sure your crop has no numbers in it at all. often its set at 300dpi, that will enlarge it. as long as when you crop something, the pixel dimension is smaller than what you started with, then your not enlarging. but forget about dpi and suggested sizes. this site will make 100dpi into one inch. a 1000px is a 10" print.

---Mike Savad
MikeSavad.com

As Jane said, your camera is fine. Don't change ANYTHING! Just upload your images and FAA decides how big they can sell for.

Yes, I understand about not changing the dpi now. But it is too late for the digitally altered photos - the damage was done. But anyway, I have to lower the pixels on even the ones straight from the camera, because the preview of the actual resolution on FAA looks bad unless I do.

Jessica, what do you mean that FAA decides how big to sell them? I thought we had to choose that based on the pixel size of the image? I mean a 2000X3000 pixel image cannot be a duvet, right? Yet the duvet remains an option unless I delete the pricing. So FAA does not seem to be choosing how big the image can be...

The problem is that for my fine art work (paintings), galleries are always insisting about the exact size of pixels and dpi must always be 300 and megabytes have to be a certain size - it can make one crazy trying to comply with their specs. So that is where I am coming from.

Joanne, the full-resolution preview here will show what your image will look like at the largest print size (correct me if I'm wrong, guys). I have a very cheap point and shoot as well as a full-frame sensor camera and the difference is quite stark when you use the preview between the two. The only image I've sold here 5 times was taken with that really cheap point and shoot, so I limit the size I price at 20 inches. It's an 18 mp camera, so technically I could sell it much larger but it wouldn't look good, so I just leave the prices out of the larger sizes.

That's one problem with the preview thing....but it also will help you decide if you should price something out to the max, or just limit what sizes you price.

Joanne,

Always save images before and after all edits. And if need be in layers save as well.

Dave

Mary, that's confusing about the preview. Because it will say that this is the actual full resolution at whatever the pixels are, like 2000X3000. So I was assuming that this is what the image would look like at 20X30. And if that wasn't good, I would go back to Photoshop and lower the resolution to 1500 by whatever that turns out to be and try that, etc. The maximum size possible would be a duvet, right? Are you saying that the actual resolution is showing what a duvet would look like?

Not a duvet.

It shows what a print would look like at the max size allowed. (Not the max size listed.)

Do NOT change it in PS. Stop changing things in PS.

Just list it smaller than the largest allowed. Jessica is slightly off in saying let FAA pick the size you can sell. That only works if it is absolutely tack sharp and noise free at 100%. If it is not, then you can still list it but limit the size. (Don't change the image to limit the size, just leave the larger prices blank.)

Most of my P&S shots are limited to 20 inches even though they are allowed to go to 40. Most will simply not print at 40 period. Some, shot when the light is quite bright will go to 30 or 36 but most I limit between 16 and 24.

Do your work
Do not change anything except to get it looking how you want it
Upload that

Look at your image in your photo editor at 150%. Is it blotchy? Blurry? Blocky? No? Great! Offer it at largest size.
Yes? Look at 100%. No? Good offer a size under what it says you can here for perfection or at top size if happy with it
Yes? Scrap it Or turn it into digital art

Oh now we are bringing duvets into the conversation. That's a whole other thing because if you don't have a big enough file it will print some of it in a solid color. So there a place to put in a price.

Once you upsize a file it s already degraded and downsizing won't restore it to the original quality. That's one reason they don't want you to do it. Another thing to realize is for prints the output of droplets and ink per inch is the same for all prints. And it is a lot finer then 300. (There's no "dots"). The printers are all set up to handle 300 DPI (PPI) as an input. But if you only have a hundred they just up-size for you.That's why they don't want you to increase the size. They handle that part.

It is important to understand that DPI is not an image property. That little dialogue box is just a kind of math short cut. On some programs you can resample and make those numbers whatever you want. That could force it to change size. Just don't check off resample and it becomes nothing more than a little calculator to play "what if". Cameras have no DPI. Images have no DPI. All you have is pixel dimensions. DPi is just pixels dived by inches. You can't have a DPI until you know the inches. a little file is transferred with the actual image file that has the PDI and inch info as well as the pixel dimensions. Only the pixel dimensions are a file property. The printer adjusts the inches before it is printed. I never even think about DPI. I just upload what I have.

Another link from that site you referenced is "The myth of DPI". A good read for anyone a bit confused.http://www.rideau-info.com/photos/mythdpi.html

BTW, to get the best image quality it is better to just leave spaces blank then to change the file size. That way the printer uses all the pixels available for the sizes you do offer. But that is a lot to keep track of when you change prices. So I just reduce the image size. That will have the added effect of showing the preview accurately for the largest print.

Yes, I look at it 100% (actual pixels) in Photoshop and it always looks good, but then it doesn't look good in the preview on FAA. Where on this website does it explain what that preview represents? It says it is showing you actual pixels. But it looks a lot crappier than the actual pixel size on Photoshop.

So if I understand: I don't change any pixels in photoshop and upload it and if the preview looks like crap, I should just leave it and don't resize the pixels until it looks good in the preview. If the pixels are 3000X4000, and it looks bad in the preview, I would just not allow a 30X40 print to be available. But how would I know what the largest size is to make available? Understanding that the 3000X4000 in photoshop looks good. There is no way to judge...

Nomads, which I just reloaded after going back to the original, is 3000X4000 in photoshop and in inches it is about 22X16.5". The resolution on the preview on FAA looks great. It is showing 30X40" as the largest size - so even though it is not that big in photoshop, it can print that big?

it should look the same in both places. make sure your really looking at it at a 100% in photoshop. there should be a percent at the bottom or in the viewer showing you how close you are. if your looking at it and the image simply fills the screen, that's not a 100%, that's usually like 25%. the zoom on this site shows it at a 100. just don't click the edges or it will stretch. the close up here does tend to sharpen things a bit though.

if your totally unsure what the best size in, limit the sizes to 24" or less. this should cover most issues unless it has blocks, and then in which case there is little you can do with those.

---Mike Savad
MikeSavad.com

Yes it can. Joanne there is some math behind the scenes happening.

If it looks good just let it happen.

Good luck to you,

Dave

PS, you can ask JC or Abbie to take a look to see if the quality is there for printing. They are quality control.

Yes, it is 100% which is the same as "actual pixels" in photoshop - it's a huge image bigger than the window, but it's not always good in FAA. I just learned a couple of good things on YouTube and am going back to the originals and redoing the digitized ones.

You are a very good photographer and a quick study.

I use YouTube quite a bit.

Dave

why thank you, Dave!

Joanne,

Under the image tab in Photoshop PS, you can choose different ways of manipulating the pixels per inch by width and height.
The third box is to manipulate the ppi. There are lines between those three boxes. You need to see how those lines behave
towards your image. You can change those lines from effecting width, height and ppi to only effecting width and height.

You need to master that.

When you have a 16 x 20 @300 ppi and you have two lines for the width 16 and height 20, but you change ppi to 100
to correspond with FAA, you get what Mike saw as a distortion.

When you have the three lines affecting w x h and ppi, you can than change ppi to 100 and the width and height will change
correspondingly. They will multiply proportionally by three.

There is a check box that controls the lines. And there is a lock on the lines that controls them. Those two controls add dynamics.

See YouTube.

Dave

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtpVtPTf3Xs


It is late, I am off to sleep. Beach day tomorrow.

Dave

I''m going to throw the cat among the pigeons (metaphorically) here and agree with Joanne - in spite of what FAA says, the green box preview does NOT always give a true representation of how an image looks at 100%. We had a discussion about this before and somebody explained scientifically how the quality of the preview depends a lot on the actual size of the image and the way the preview is prepared for viewing on site.

I no longer automatically trust the green box. Sometimes it gets it right, and in those cases I allow it to be shown. Sometimes it messes up the image, adds artifacts etc, so in those cases I turn it off. Luckily, when deciding whether or not an image is fit to be printed, the quality people at FAA look at the original full resolution image, not the preview.

If an image is sharp, noise-free and has a good tonal range when viewed at 100% in Photoshop, then it's good to go. If it's sharp, noise-free and has a good tonal range in the green box, then turn the green box on. If not, turn it off to avoid putting buyers off a perfectly good image.

A note on ppi: the number of pixels per inch determines the size at which an image will be printed. When uploading to FAA, the ppi you (or your camera) set on your own computer is completely irrelevant, because FAA will change the setting according to the size of print required.

Say you upload an image 2000px x 3000px. Somebody comes along and orders a 20" x 30" print, so FAA sets the ppi at 100 in order to print it at that size. If the customer wanted a print 6.6" x 10", FAA would set the ppi at 300 and so on.

It's the same image with the same number of pixels in each case - you provide one file and FAA sets the ppi to print it at whatever size the customer orders.

So now I get it and I am replacing all my photos. Whew! But I just noticed that the T shirt is not showing up anywhere. What happened? thanks.

the green box is only really meant as a glimpse for those that don't own more sophisticated tools. the box tends to sharpen the image more than it should, which enhances noise, it stretches the image on the sides. and if you increased you zoom like i did, the images look stretched already. while i would have to compare it again, i'd say except for the sharpening done to it, its pretty close to what i see in photoshop.


the shirt is only on pixels and your artist site.


---Mike Savad
MikeSavad.com

But it was there until this morning....so no one can see the T shirt on FAA? Not that I think that's going to be much of a selling point...
Where is my artist website on FAA? It's difficult finding certain things on FAA, it seems to me. I cannot even find this discussion except for the link in my email, although I am following it - it doesn't appear under Discussions I'm following. Thanks.

home decor on faa, the rest gets the stuff. its very confusing.

if you paid the 30 bucks, you get the artist site. the address should be behind the scenes.

you can also click on visit website and find it here:

http://joanne-lobotsky.artistwebsites.com/

all the products should be listed here. be sure to update the header words and so on.


discussions are under COMMUNITY. clicking on it though will bring you here. hovering over it will show contests, chat and stuff like that.


---Mike Savad
MikeSavad.com

You can edit your products in edit mode on FAA but some products are not for sale on FAA.

Look for YOUR discussions on the WATCHED tab on top

Okay, thanks. I guess it updated overnight and moved the T shirt. The website is confusing and I have to paint now! Too much time on the computer these past days! thanks!