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What Do You Use To Get That Shot?

John Haldane

Blog #6 of 8

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July 19th, 2013 - 11:29 AM

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What Do You Use To Get That Shot?

I am often asked how I “got the shot” that looks so good. The easy, smart-aleck answer is: I don’t “point and shoot.”

The honest, and complicated, answer involves years of experience, accumulation of equipment, and using the right stuff at the right time.

My equipment includes

Canon 7D camera
Canon 5D Mark III camera
Canon EF16-35 f/2.8 lens
Canon EF24-70 f/2.8
Canon EF70-200 f/2.8 lens
Canon EF 400mm f/2.8 lens
UV filters
Polarizing filters
Neutral density filters
Flash
Remote shutter release
Motion detector
Cotton Carrier vest
LowePro backpack
Tripods (2)
Monopod
Back up batteries and memory cards, chargers, etc.

Before Nikon users make any comments, I must say that Nikon is just as good as Canon – it is a matter of preference or – as in my case – what you started with and have added to. It is, however, my considered opinion that Nikon and Canon stand head and shoulders above other brands.

It would be impossible in a single blog to explain how I use all m y equipment, but I shall endeavor to share a few reasons why I have different cameras, lenses, and filters.

Cameras: I have one full-frame (5d Mark III) and one “crop sensor” (7D) camera that I use. The 5D is a better camera than the 7D, but that doesn’t mean the 7D is bad – on the contrary, it is very good! But a crop sensor cameras like the 7D adds focal length to a lens. That means that if I am shooting something a long ways off, I will use the 7D as well as a telephoto lens to get the image as close as I can to the target. For close images, wide angle, and other similar shots, I use the full-frame 5D.

Lenses: the 16-35mm lens is a very wide angle that allows shooting very close up to objects while getting it all in one image. At the widest (16mm), there is some shaping distortion approaching a “fish-eye” view. I like very much having the option of sliding between 16 and 35mm to get the shot I

The 24-70mm lens is my “in between” size that I can use for almost anything between wide angle and zoom. Again, the ability to choose between 24 and 70mm is a major benefit of this lens. A static length lens is not ideal for my wildlife and landscape images, with one exception (see below). I use this lens with both my 7D and my 5D, depending on what I am shooting. People, unmoving images such as buildings, animals that you can get close to like in a barnyard or zoo, trees, etc. are good examples for using this lens.

The 70-200mm is the most versatile and a wonderful tool for any camera bag. The wide range of zoom ability allows fairly close shots to distant photos taken with the full 200 zoom. I use this lens for wildlife, distant scenery, objects I cannot get close enough to because of obstacles or safety reasons, and – believe it or not – some flowers. Shooting flowers with the 70-200mm lens creates great opportunities for Bokeh (depth of field blurring) as well as grouping. I use this lens mostly with the 7D, but it works very well with the 5D, too.

The 400mm lens is the monster. Weighing almost 20lbs, is hefty and requires a special tripod. It can be used with either camera, but I use the 7D the most to increase the focal length of what I am shooting. This lens is excellent for animals that would otherwise spook such as bears, deer, elk, coyotes, and birds. By setting up at a great distance, I can still capture great images that look as though I was much closer. This lens is not for the beginner, however, as purchasing price new starts at over $10,000.

Filters: I use a UV/Haze filter on most of my lenses at one time or another to protect the lens from dust and scratches. It is far cheaper to replace a UV filter than a lens! I do not, however, use them all the time. Sunrise and sunset shots, in particular, are much more colorful and sharp, in my opinion, without the UV filter.

The polarizing filter acts just like the polarizing sunglasses you may have: it cuts glare. This is best for shots around water or other reflective surfaces including clouds. I use this sometimes for waterfalls, lake shots, and shy shots that might otherwise appear “blown out.” With sky shots, the clouds are sharper and the sky bluer with a polarizing filter.

I have several Neutral Density (ND) filters. Have you ever seen photos where waterfalls seem silky or oceans waves smooth? Most likely, a ND filter was used. The NDs reduce the light allowed into your camera. This means that the same lens opening (aperture or f-stop) can be used with darker results. ND filters come in various shades from slight to very dark. Generally speaking, the brighter the image you are shooting, the darker the ND filter you will want use. I also have split ND filters. These are darker on the top and graduate to clear glass on the bottom. The best use for these is sunset or sunrise, when the sky is bright and the land below very dark. By apply the ND filter at the top and the clear glass at the bottom, the image is much more balanced and much more in line with what your eyes see.

Well, that’s it for this blog. I hope this was at least interesting, if not helpful. Bookmark this blog for more yet to come!

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Sandra Foster

9 Years Ago

Fort St John, BC

Interesting info. I have the Canon 7D which I love. I upgraded from the Rebel T1 and found that the image quality was not better but the camera is much easier to navigate through for the various settings. Sandra