A Wonderment of Innocence in Fak Fak, Irian Jaya

Selected as one of GoNomads.com top ten travel stories of 2013.

No one goes to Fak Fak.

This is an untouched, almost undiscovered, town of brightly colored houses that look, at first, to be casually stacked up the steep hillsides that tower over the turquoise inlets that are deeply carved into the lush, tropical landscape.

Fak Fak is a workhorse fishing town in Indonesia's Irian Jaya Bara province. It takes almost an hour, a full on cardio workout, to hike from the harbor to the crest of the town. I am constantly offered a ride; it is inconceivable that someone would want to clamber up these streets for fun and exercise. The reward of doing so is a breathless view of the Banda Sea knitting into the sky and, behind me, the Papuan hinterlands stretching across the Bomberai peninsula and dissolving into a violet tinged horizon

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